Gord100's Trillium Trailer Webpage

Wooden Screen Door (1975, 13' Model and more...)

A lot of people are interested in making a Screen Door for their trailers. I took pictures of my trailer before and after for you to analyse on your own. I hope you find them helpful since the door came together nicely with our trailer. Here's some pictures I took the Spring of 2004. I've provided a small description for each picture.

If you have any questions or would like to know more, you can find me back at the Boler website, and contact me, "Gord100".

Piece	Sizes (width X length)
Dimensions:
Curved side pieces	5" X 68.5"
Door	23" X 67.75"
Two stoppers	7/8" X 67.75"
Frame	3.5" wide
Top Screen	17.5" X 27"
Bottom Screen	17.5 x 8.75"
Bottom Panel	1/8" Mahogany Wall Panel

Notes:
Make sure the Trailer is Level before you start.
There are four crossbars in the door, counter-sunk 1 inch into the side frames. This gives the door stability.
Measurements are unique to trailers
No nails are used. Everything is glued.
Bottom panel adds to structure integrity. This is why there is no screen on the bottom.
Three hinges were used to hold the door.
I used a small latch with two rollers to keep the door closed
Use 4 coats of Varathane Clear Waterborne Outdoor, for protection.
Once you get the two side pieces secured in place, then you can take the final measurements for your door size.

Start by tracing out your right and left side edges. Four screws were used to hold the latch-edge to the cupboard.	You can use any handle you like. I have this lined up with the door below the screen. The handle is screwed in from the opposite side Also, see here how the screens fit. They are also countersunk and have to be carefully built to fit the door properly. A router was used create the countersink.	These are all the final components in relation with the trailer, just before Varathane and assembly. Notice the curved side pieces. They are curved and shaped to fit their respective sides.
		Here's a finished view.
Notice the top anchor point secured against the Top Shelf. Here I used two 4" screws with nuts and washers. Use any method to secure the hinge-side of the door.	Here's a view on the finished door from the inside. A wooden knob was used so that screw heads would not show from the outside.
The screw on the right here is counter sunk, and the narrow door stopper is later placed on top to hide this screw.	This shows the top of the two screws holding the frame on the left-hand side. Also, when the edge-piece is installed, those screws are then hidden.